The more you visit, the more you love
Perhaps it is the city's serene and contemplative charm. Its world heritage sites transport visitors to a distant past, where ancient pagodas, with unique cultural landmarks, and historic palaces stand as testaments to a rich history. There is the Truong Tien Bridge gracefully spanning the Huong River, which winds through mountains and forests, creating “an unparalleled poetic beauty”.
I love Hue for its lush greenery, the golden hues of plants and trees, the yellow blossoms of Caesalpinia ferrea, the crimson blossoms of flamboyant flowers, and the soft purple of giant crape myrtles. I have been to Hue in the refreshing spring, left it in the golden summer sun, and been back in the breathtaking beauty of autumn. Each visit deepens my affection. No matter how familiar I become with the city's streets, landmarks, and architectural marvels, Hue remains an enchanting mystery - one that grows more captivating the better you know it. Have any poets and musicians sung of "Hue thuong" (beloved Hue)? For when you truly love someone or some place, it becomes inseparable from your soul, like loving yourself.
A fortunate encounter on blessed lands
On my most recent visit, just before Hue was officially recognized as a centrally governed municipality, I happily took on the role of a traveler, exploring the Imperial Citadel once more. The Kien Trung Pavilion and Thai Hoa Palace have been meticulously restored, standing alongside the ancient temples and shrines within the complex. Many a young Gen Z visitor, dressed elegantly in traditional Nhat Binh Ao dai, taking pictures at Ngo Mon and corners of the Citadel.
I also saw young people gracefully wandering through the scenic landscapes of Vong Canh Hill, Tu Duc Mausoleum, and Thuy Xuan incense village. In today's digital era where social media has boomed, the art photos, the “checking-in” photos capture moments where history and modernity harmonize, playing a role in preserving and promoting Hue’s cultural essence.
Visiting Tu Hieu Pagoda, where Zen Master Thich Nhat Hanh spent his final days, was a deeply moving experience. Nestled in a tranquil pine forest, the ancient temple exudes a peacefulness that seems to lift the burdens of everyday life. A simple yet profound calligraphy piece by the Zen Master - "I have arrived, I am home" - reminded me of life’s impermanence. At the temple, I happened to see Kha Chi, a media host and philanthropist from Saigon, quietly sweeping fallen leaves near the resting place of Nguyen Dynasty eunuchs who once contributed to the pagoda’s construction. It is in such sacred places that meaningful encounters unfold.
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A young couple holds a Hang thuan ceremony at Bao Quoc Pagoda (Hue)
Those who left – stayed – returned
I was delighted to reunite with special friends from Hue on this trip. One of them was Bui Thi Thu Thao, who had spent 12 years managing hotels in the Middle East and Africa. On her return to Hue this time, she held her wedding ceremony with her husband, Le Kha Giap, a well-known YouTuber from Hai Duong. Together with their families, they performed the Hang Thuan ceremony at Bao Quoc Pagoda - an ancient and sacred temple built in the 17th century during the reign of Lord Nguyen Phuc Tan. Later in the afternoon, at a beautifully designed garden café in Huong Thuy, the wedding reception took place. The couple touched and impressed their guests with a meaningful ritual: sharing a meal of plain rice cooked in a traditional clay pot - one of Hue’s signature simple yet soulful dishes.
While Thu Thao has returned to her hometown, another friend from Hue, Phan Quoc Vinh, is preparing for a new journey. Along with his wife and two children, he is heading to the United States for postgraduate studies. With a passion for education, they hope to enhance their knowledge and contribute to their homeland by developing engaging, experiential learning programs for young children in Hue.
I was also deeply impressed by the creativity and dedication of Nguyen Xuan Kien, a young man working in Hue’s tourism industry. He developed the “One-Day Net Zero Hue” tour experience, organized by iVietnam Travel, which was honored with Second Prize in the 2024 Provincial Innovation Startup Competition. With great enthusiasm, Xuan Kien invited me to join his cycling tour, which takes visitors through sites such as Vinh Quoc Cong Palace, Thien Mu Pagoda, Luong Quan Communal House, and Xuan Dai Garden House.
"It’s not just about cycling to reduce carbon emissions," Xuan Kien explained. "We also use cloth bags, glass bottles, experience making traditional pomelo peel jam, and do painting activities. Guests can even take part in donating saplings to local residents, planting trees, or collecting waste if they wish." The Net Zero tour promotes a message of slow living, connecting with nature, and contributing to environmental conservation. And truly, who wouldn’t appreciate such meaningful experiences when visiting Hue? After all, they allow us to both enjoy and help preserve "Hue’s unparalleled beauty - its gentle yet contemplative charm."(*).
(*) Hue – My Love (music by Truong Thi Tuyet Mai, poem by Do Thi Thanh Binh)