The term "pháp lam"
According to Dr. Tran Duc Anh Son, from a functional perspective, "pháp lam" is an architectural material primarily made of copper, with multiple layers of colorful enamel coating on the exterior. Its ability to withstand external impacts over time makes it an effective material for creating decorative architectural elements such as sculptures on the tops and roofs of palaces, forming flat decorative panels with intricate patterns. It is often affixed to the edges of roofs and eaves in palaces, on ceremonial platforms within the imperial citadel, and on the tombs of Nguyen Dynasty emperors in Hue.
From an artistic standpoint, "pháp lam" encompasses a variety of art pieces with diverse shapes, vibrant colors, and rich and lively decorative themes. Household items, personal belongings, and decorative objects adorned with "pháp lam" within palaces and tombs are considered valuable artifacts left by the Nguyen Dynasty for posterity.
The term "pháp lam" is derived from the French word "France" (pháp lang). According to the painter Pham Dang Tri, it is an art of decoration. In China, it existed as a handicraft from the 14th to the 19th century, and in Vietnam, it was prevalent during the Nguyen Dynasty.
In summary, "pháp lam" refers to the art of enamel decoration on copper to embellish both architectural elements in the Nguyen Dynasty's imperial courts and essential items such as bowls, plates, and ancient vases.
Exploring "Pháp Lam" Cakes
In Hue, Vietnam, a recent trend has emerged involving individuals attempting to elevate a traditional cake, known as "bánh bó mứt," to a more sophisticated level by giving it the name "pháp lam" with a touch of "royalty." Some people use molds designed for other cakes, such as "bánh gối" (pillow cake) or "bánh ngũ sắc" (multicolored cake), and even incorporate "bánh phục linh" into a cube-shaped mold, labeling it as "Bánh pháp lam."
The essence of the story lies in the attempt to introduce a well-defined cake from daily life in Hue into a mold that already has its name, creating a new cake with a sophisticated name – "bánh pháp lam." It is noteworthy that the traditional "bánh bó mứt" is considered a common and ordinary cake in Hue, not typically associated with the grand feasts of the Nguyen Dynasty.
The recipe for "bánh bó mứt," according to Mrs. Hoang Thi Kim Cuc's menu, includes a cup of soft candied fruits (orange, lime, tomato, ginger, quince...), a cup of roasted glutinous rice flour, half a cup of sugar, and half a cup of cold water. The sugar and cold water are boiled in a pot until boiling, and the pre-soaked candied fruits are added, evenly sliced into the boiling syrup, mixed well before adding the flour, and gradually sprinkled and stirred until thickened. The mixture is then placed on a board covered with a layer of glutinous rice flour, and the cake is molded into a square and elongated shape, cooled, sliced at a thickness of 1cm, and wrapped in paper.
For the past two years, I have had the honor of being a judge at various competitions and Tet exhibitions in Hue. I have encountered numerous booths showcasing cakes labeled as "Pháp Lam," and I have explained to them that the names of various cakes in Hue are derived from ingredients or baking techniques, such as "bánh in," "bánh bó," "bánh đậu xanh," "bánh đậu quyên," "sen tán," "sen chấy," "bánh bắt," "bánh kẹp," etc. If one wishes to create a cake with a noble and elegant character, it is indeed commendable for its creativity. However, I would like to emphasize the importance of maintaining a reasonable balance in the presentation of "pháp lam" cakes:
Firstly, the multicolored mold is designed for dry cakes, and if candied cakes are left in them for too long, they may become moldy within 3-4 days, as candied cakes are moist.
Secondly, the cube-shaped mold has square edges of 1cm and sides of 3cm, which may not fit well with the original cube shape. Traditionally, cakes like "bánh phục linh" with a rectangular shape do not match the even square shape of "bánh ngũ sắc."
If one wishes to use ingredients for "bánh phục Linh," a cube-shaped mold that fits appropriately should be created. Additionally, pillow or multicolored cakes are traditionally made from colored glutinous rice, and later, in the city where it is difficult to find glutinous rice, skillful individuals have used roasted glutinous rice flour for cakes, creating a multicolored effect. While the cake has six colors, the white paper takes up one color, so it should be called "ngũ sắc."
With personal insights gained from early experiences in my family, I convey these heartfelt words to readers, especially the younger generation interested in reviving traditional cakes from our homeland. It is crucial to use the correct names, ingredients, and authentic techniques to preserve the cultural essence of Hue's soft and delicate cakes.